The $20-line seems to be an important one in the world of California Merlot. Cross under it, and the odds are stacked against you. But venture above it, and you significantly up your chances of getting pretty, smooth, nuanced flavors. Like this bright, rich Napa Valley number:

Freemark Abbey 2007 Merlot Napa Valley ($25). Intense, bright, flavorful blackberry, black cherry and juicy plum aromas and flavors are accented with aromatic cedar, whole spices and vanilla notes before streamlining into a dry, smooth finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 4-5 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.