As I’ve mentioned, I’ve been tasting my way through a slew of under-$20 California Merlots, and frankly, it’s been painful. Here’s how my evenings have tended to go: open a couple of the Merlot bottles, taste, spit, pour down drain. Then reach for a really nice red — either from my own stock or another sample — to essentially renew my faith in wine. I’ve put quite a dent in my good bottle collection this way, by the by… (Though I have managed to find a handful of standout Merlot values — more about those soon.)

The other night, I reached for a new single vineyard bottling from Calera — one of my favorite California producers — the Pinot Noir de Villiers Mt. Harlan. I just love it when my faith in something is rewarded…

Calera 2007 Pinot Noir Mt. Harlan de Villiers ($35). Offers bright, effusive aromas and flavors that include rich black cherry and deep plum, waves of chocolate and an array of warm spices, picking up touches of mineral, sweet smoke and vanilla through the youthful, fruity finish. Tempting now but should age nicely, 5-8 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.