If you have a special Chardonnay and are looking for a killer dish to pair it with — check out this recipe from the September 2002 Bon Appetit for Pasta with Lobster, Wild Mushrooms and Cream. I made it recently and it was luxuriously delish. Using lobster tails is an easy cheat — less expensive (and all together less harrowing) than the whole critter.

And here’s the kind of Chardonnay I’m talking about:

Chateau Montelena 2007 Chardonnay Napa Valley ($50). Bright and intensely concentrated, offering an elegant array of aromas and flavors — white peach, green pear, dried apple, mineral and light spice notes, with texture and style. Medium-bodied; complex, long finish. Ready to drink now but will age beautifully for 5-7 years, or more. Locate this wine online or in your area.