I know, I know, there are people who get bent out of shape when I “relegate” Zinfandel to being a BBQ wine. But I really don’t mean it as an insult. To me, this is what the grape is meant to do — just fulfilling its noble destiny if you think about it. Cuz really, is there anything better than a big plate of smoke-ringed brisket, fall-off-the-bone-tender ribs (with or without sauce — your choice), sliced white onion, pickles and a scoop of potato salad paired with a deliciously ripe Zin? I think not.

Here are a bunch of recent releases from two California wineries that are Zin specialists. The wines are variations on a theme, to some extent, but there are differences…

Mazzocco 2007 Zinfandel Alexander Valley Stone ($29). Mazzocco keeps getting it right — even with massive ripeness and alcohol levels, there’s still something appealing and drinkable about their Zins. This one offers a pretty, aromatic mixed berry jam laced with milk chocolate, briar and cracked pepper notes. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Mazzocco 2007 Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Pony ($32). Exotic floral and spice notes mingle with cassis, blackberry jam, pastry, toasted vanilla and baking spices, especially clove. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Mazzocco 2007 Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Warm Springs Ranch ($32). Deep and mouth-filling, with fleshy blackberry and plum flavors and aromas accented with coffee, licorice and fresh herbs. Long, lush finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Mazzocco 2007 Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Maple Reserve ($60). Offering more of the red fruit side of Zinfandel, with raspberry jam, wild strawberry and red plum flavors, picking up clove, ginger, silky chocolate and toasty oak through the peppery finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 2-3 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Wilson 2007 Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Carl’s Vineyard Reserve ($44). This one cranks up the briary/herbal notes, with a heavy dose accenting super-ripe berry and plum fruit. With cracked pepper and toasty oak accents through the beefy finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Wilson 2007 Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Sawyer Vineyard Reserve ($44). Ripe and concentrated, with full-bodied cassis/blackberry aromas and flavors that are very nearly liqueur-like. Licorice and spicy chocolate accents on the finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Wilson 2007 Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Tori Vineyard Reserve ($44). Wilson also makes whopping big wines, but also manages to offer more than just alcohol burn. This one has ripe blueberry cobbler character, picking up licorice and black pepper notes through the oaky finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Wilson 2007 Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Ken’s Reserve ($60). This is just a massive wine, no getting around it. With concentrated, ripe plum/prune aromas and flavors, loads of dry tannins and black licorice notes that build straight through the full finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.