Here’s where I run into trouble with Merlot… I’m just really more of a Cabernet Sauvignon person. I like the structure and tannins and masculine intensity of Cab, so smooth Merlot — with a quite similar fruit profile much of the time — just hits me as wimpy by comparison. In all honesty, the lower-priced Merlots (the good ones, that is — not the cough syrupy ones) are mostly used for popcorn and chocolate-covered-almond movie nights around here. In other words, as a stand-in for the soft drinks that I haven’t touched for decades…

So when I recommend a Merlot, it is an exception. And an exceptional wine. Here are three that make the cut — offering gorgeous, intense fruit, with elegance and character. Not just smooth and fruity, and certainly not cheap, but well worth the pricetag.

Matanzas Creek 2006 Merlot Sonoma County Bennett Valley Jackson Park Vineyard ($49). Fruit-driven and concentrated, with ripe plum, blackberry and black cherry fruit layered with pronounced spicy, vanillin oak along with touches of mocha, cola and toast. A big, structured Merlot. Ready to drink now (though a little decanting wouldn’t be a bad idea) and over the next 4-5 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Shafer 2008 Merlot Napa Valley ($48). Intense and deep, with tightly-wound black plum and blackberry fruit picking up accents of smoke, spiced tea and mineral through the lingering, smooth, complex finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 4-5 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Stephanie 2006 Merlot Napa Valley ($40). Lovely aromas and flavors of rich black cherry mingle with coffee, cedar, baking spices and creme brulee, with a long, evolving, silky finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 3-4 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.