Look, I agree with the critics (critical consumers included) who bemoan the uber-ripe, sweet, heavy Chardonnays that are still hitting the shelves. But that doesn’t mean that all big, ripe Chardonnays are bad — as long as they have some balancing brightness and complexity, count me in.

Granted, a big, ripe creamy Chardonnay is not what I want to drink every single day. But when the mood strikes — these can be absolutely delicious. Here are three examples of the style done right:

Matanzas Creek 2008 Chardonnay Bennett Valley ($40). Honeyed fig and pear aromas and flavors are rich and complex, with notes of mineral, cream, melon and honeysuckle on the pretty, evolving finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 4-5 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Matrix 2007 Chardonnay Alexander Valley Stuhlmuller Reserve ($36). Plenty of rich oak influence here, but not over the top. Offering creamy and slightly buttery accents to the ripe apple and fig fruit, with toasted, spicy notes through the finish, along with a touches of orange zest and toasted hazelnut. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Rochioli 2008 Chardonnay Russian River Valley Estate Grown ($50). I absolutely loved this wine. Hits a delicious balance between rich and bright. Butterscotch aromas accent ripe red apple and tropical pineapple flavors, but just when you think the whole thing is going to top out in creamy richness, it gets focused and sleek. With orange rind and stony mineral notes that linger on the complex finish. Again, loved it. Ready to drink now and over the next 4-5 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.