Earlier in the year I had the opportunity to meet with Hourglass Wineryowner Jeff Smith. I’d heard of the wines (pricey, small production Napa Cab, right?) but had never actually tasted them.

We met in the lobby of his Houston hotel, and for some reason couldn’t seem to put our hands on tasting glasses. So Jeff suggested that we snag a couple of paper cups from the nearby Starbucks and use those for tasting, which is exactly what we did. I’m pretty sure these were the most expensive wines I’d tasted in disposable cups since a bottle of Krug was rather unceremoniously poured into plastic coupes (the kind where the plastic bowl tends to pop off the plastic stem at all the wrong moments) at the Chateau Marmont in the early 90s. But that’s another story…

The wines were lovely — and rose above their pedestrian vessels quite admirably. Here are my notes:

Hourglass Winery 2007 Merlot Napa Valley Blueline Vineyard ($75). Supple blueberry and black cherry aromas and flavors, with a slightly floral note mingling with touches of rich cocoa, strawberry jam and toasty vanilla, with a long, smooth finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 4-5 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Hourglass Winery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Blueline Vineyard ($125). Classic varietal character, offering concentrated, aromatic currant, blackberry, sage and toasty oak notes. With plenty of structure and power, but simultaneously fresh and elegant. Picks up touches of tobacco, bittersweet chocolate and cedar through the complex finish. Tempting now but should age beautifully, at least 10 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Hourglass Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($135). Intense, compelling, powerful — offering deep black fruits (currant, blackberry, plum) layered with toasty, spicy oak, cream, mint, damp earth and cocoa, with a long, evolving finish that shows a bit of grip supporting waves of flavor. Tempting now but should age beautifully, at least 10 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.