I continue to up my liking of Carmenere from Chile — more and more often these days, it’s quite appealing. Historically it has a reputation for being quite green and astringent, but as winemakers are adjusting ripeness levels, etc., that green quality has transformed into more of a brambly note that merely accents the fruit rather than dominating it.

This 2007 Carmenere from Montes is a great example. Substantial enough to work with grilled meats, but pleasant on its own, too.

Montes 2007 Carmenere Colchagua Valley Alpha($26). Meaty, savory, peppery aromas and flavors accent full-bodied black cherry fruit, with briar and toasted vanilla notes mingling on the long, intense finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.