I am way over winter at this point — and have made a personal decision to just go ahead with spring, regardless of the actual weather conditions. In that spirit, here’s a fresh, flavorful pairing — Chateau St. Jean’s La Petite Etoile Fume Blanc matched with an earthy asparagus and wild mushroom frittata. If cooking for 1 or 2, just use the same ingredients for omelettes!

Chateau St. Jean 2007 Fume Blanc Russian River Valley La Petite Etoile Vineyard ($20). Definitely a “fume,” with a generous smoky accent to the aromas and flavors. But there’s also enough silky melon and peach fruit, as well as bright citrus, to balance things out. Complex, lingering, spicy finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Recipe: Eggs: Asparagus & Wild Mushroom Frittata
Serves 4

2 tablespoons canola oil
1/2 pound asparagus, washed, lightly steamed or blanched, and cut into 1 1/2″ pieces
3 ounces wild mushrooms, like shiitake, cleaned and sliced
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
8 large eggs
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 cup grated Parmesan
1 tablespoon butter
1/4 pound mild goat cheese, crumbled

In a 12-inch iron skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the canola oil over moderate heat. Add mushrooms and saute about 3-5 minutes, until just softened. Add asparagus and continue to cook another couple of minutes. Remove from the pan and let cool.

In a large bowl, beat eggs with pepper and parmesan. Stir in asparagus mixture.

Add butter and remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the skillet, over moderate heat, until butter melts. Pour egg mixture into pan and reduce heat to low. Sprinkle goat cheese over the top. Cook until the eggs are nearly set, 6-9 minutes.

Heat broiler; transfer skillet to oven and cook about 6 inches from heat until eggs are set, about 2 minutes. Loosen the frittata with a spatula and slide onto a serving plate. Cut into wedges and serve immediately.