Oh, this is dangerous stuff — goes down way too easily, especially on one of these cold, grey winter nights. The slight headache I was sporting this morning was thanks to some entirely unprofessional overindulgence in this wine last night. But I couldn’t help myself… Paired with dollops of a double-cream Brie de Paris and a buttery wheat cracker, the whole was even better than the sum of its parts. The combination brought out nutty notes from the wine and the cheese and easily vanquished any thoughts of moderation…

Dow’s NV Tawny Port 10 Years Old ($35). Intense raisin character is accented with generous toffee, Christmas cake and a noticeably spicy note that kicks in mid-palate and lingers through the sweet, smooth finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 3-4 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.