According to the Mendocino Winegrape & Wine Commission, the following varietals are grown in Mendocino County:

White:Arneis, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Cortese, French Colombard, Gewurztraminer, Marsanne, Muscat Blanc, Muscat Orange, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Roussanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Musque, Semillon, Tocai Friulano, Viogner, White Riesling, Other Whites

Red:Aglianico, Barbera, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignane, Carmenere, Charbono, Cinsault, Dolcetto, Gamay, Grenache, Malbec, Mataro, Merlot, Montepulciano, Nebbiolo, Negroamaro, Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Pinot Noir, Pinotage, Primitivo, Sangiovese, Syrah, Tempranillo, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cao, Touriga Francesca, Touriga Nacional, Valdiguie, Zinfandel, Other Reds

After spending just a week touring the area earlier in the year, it felt like I tasted at least that many different types of wine — and each in a variety of styles, now that I think about it.

So as I’ve been going through my copious notes and putting together a few articles, I admit that I’ve been struggling a bit to figure out how to offer an overview of Mendocino. It seems that each winery, and at times each wine, could merit its own feature. Part of the reason for Mendocino’s diversity is that it has long served as a primary source for the “extra” 15% of the blend in Napa- and Sonoma-labeled wines. (According to U.S. law, if an AVA, like Napa Valley, is mentioned on a wine label, at least 85% of the wine must be grapes grown within that area.) So Mendocino growers have grown a bit of everything to meet the demands of winemakers in other regions, in addition to their own bottlings.

I suspect that Petite Sirah doesn’t even rank in the top 10 Mendocino grapes, in terms of quantity, but in my book — it’s one of the region’s best quality wines. I only tasted a few, but each one was very, very good:

Parducci 2006 Petite Sirah Mendocino True Grit ($30). Concentrated blackberry and blueberry character is accented with wild herbs and dried flower notes. Very nice structure and elegance, with a long peppery finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 4-5 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Trinafour 2006 Petite Sirah Mendocino County Niemi Vineyard ($30). From Saracina winemaker Alex MacGregor, this is lovely stuff. Big but balanced, and deeply concentrated, offering seductively spicy tobacco and baking spice accents to the inky blackberry, currant and cherry fruit. Long, complex finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 5-7 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Saracina 2005 Petite Sirah Mendocino County ($38). This is old vine wine, and it shows in the intense concentration and color — offering deep blackberry, blueberry and currant fruit laced with complex peppercorn and floral aromas and flavor notes. Long, smooth finish with substantial structure below. Should age nicely — delicious now and over the next 7-8 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

JC Cellars 2006 Petite Syrah Mendocino County Eaglepoint Ranch ($45). Beyond full-bodied — this one’s huge and very nearly thick, but still offers admirable balance and structure. Sandalwood, floral and pepper aromas accent ripe blueberry and blackberry flavors, with a touch of smoke on the long, lush finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 7-8 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.