Most journeys to California’s wine country begin with a rental car heading north out of the San Francisco airport. But for a change of pace, head 40 miles east toward Stockton and stop at Wente Vineyards in the Livermore Valley.

Here you’ll find a distinctly different kind of vista than, say, Napa Valley. It’s noticeably warm and decidedly windy here, with high hills blocking out the famous bay area fogs (and quite a bit of cell phone coverage, as it turns out), palm trees dotting the landscape, and vineyards planted in seriously stony soil.

Wine enthusiasts who also love to hit the links will be in golf heaven here — with a number of course options that include one of the newest stops on the PGA Nationwide Tour —  The Course at Wente Vineyards. Eighteen holes, designed by Greg Norman, play through the vineyards, with spectacular scenery at every turn.

Wente Vineyards
The heavy hitter winery in Livermore Valley is Wente Vineyards. Founded in 1883 by German immigrant C. H. Wente with an initial purchase of 48 acres, the winery has passed through five generations of the Wente family and has grown to include over 2800 acres spread throughout the Livermore Valley, San Francisco Bay and Monterey.

Earlier this year, I had the opportunity of touring the winery with current winemaker Karl D. Wente, who counts stints at Sonoma’s Peter Michael winery and Australia’s Brown Brothers winery as part of his winemaking experience. We zipped around the property in his convertible as he showed me vineyards and various tasting rooms and other structures of the extended estate — including Wente, Murrieta’s Well and Tamas Estates.

Put simply, the trio of wineries makes a ton of wine — various tiers, loads of different grapes, blends, price points. Much of this seems to be a reflection of Karl’s enthusiasm for experimentation, but I think it’s probably also a statement about the Livermore Valley — a region that doesn’t really have a “signature” wine at this point.

Historically, the Livermore seemed destined to specialize in Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon — those stony, gravelly soils being more than a little reminiscent of the soils in Graves, home to some of the world’s best examples of both varieties. But combine the nearly-nonexistant demand for Semillon in the U.S. with the tendency of most wineries in this country to expand to a large range of varieties, and what you have is a region without a real specialty. (Though if you ask me, the Sauvignon Blancs — along with what Semillons you do find — are still the quality leaders.)

In fact, Wente’s whites were my favorites, starting with a Sauv Blanc:

Wente Vineyards 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Livermore Valley Louis Mel ($12). Clean and balanced, offering grassy accents to juicy tropical melon and lime flavors that linger on the finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Wente Vineyards 2007 Chardonnay Livermore Valley Eric’s ($22). A stainless-fermented, no malo style, offering clean, crisp apple and pear aromas and flavors that pick up a touch of refreshing citrus through the focused finish. Ready to drink now and over the next 2-3 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Wente Vineyards 2008 Chardonnay Arroyo Seco Monterrey Riva Ranch ($20). Ripe, tropical fruit-focused and aromatic, with honeyed fig and cream accents, along with fresh mango and toast notes. Nice complexity for the price, with a long, lush finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Wente Vineyards 2007 Chardonnay Livermove Valley Nth Degree ($N/A). Beautifully balanced, with a mouthwatering refreshing note on the finish that brightened the rich, lush, ripe flavors — ripe red apple, pear, pie crust, spice. Ready to drink now and over the next 2-3 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Learn more about Wente Vineyards here!