There’s currently a considerable amount of editorial space devoted to the imminent implosion of the Australian wine industry — too much wine at prices too low to be profitable… I personally just wrote a whole paper on the subject as part of the WSET Diploma program. And while there are certainly problems to be addressed, let’s not forget that Australia does a lot of things quite well.

One thing you might not expect from this “sunburnt” country is Pinot Noir. But the climates are actually more varied than you may know, and there are some very good Pinots to be had. Here are a few I’ve enjoyed lately:

Brokenwood 2008 Pinot Noir Beechworth ($22). Medium-bodied and pretty, with red cherry aromas and flavors laced with complex earth and mushroom notes, with a focused, lightly toasty finish that stays bright as it lingers. Very nice now and over the next four or five years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Cooralook 2008 Pinot Noir Strathbogie Ranges-Mornington Peninsula ($15). Loved this wine — for the wine and the price! With appealing layers of smooth cherry, cherry blossom, black tea, exotic spices and a long, plush finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

De Bortoli 2007 Pinot Noir Yarra Valley Gulf Station ($19). A delicate Pinot, offering pretty red berry aromas and flavors laced with fresh herbal and mineral notes. Moderate finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Plantagenet 2008 Pinot Noir Western Australia Omrah ($17). Intense red berry and cherry character play off dashes of deep spice, mocha and earth notes that linger on the generous finish. Pair with roasted wild mushrooms! Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Tamar Ridge 2007 Pinot Noir Tasmania Devil’s Corner ($16). Crisp red cherry and berry flavors are accented with aromatic herbal and tobacco leaf notes, with a bright finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.