Every year I get questions on the “perfect” wine for Thanksgiving, and every year I give basically the same answer: there is no perfect wine for Thanksgiving. Most turkey feasts include so many varied, family-centric recipes and side dishes that just about any wine you can name would work with at least something on the table.

So I tend to use it as a time to indulge my latest wine infatuation — whatever that happens to be at any given moment. It varies, frankly, changing on a dime from Cru Beaujolais to New Zealand Pinot Noir, to pink bubbles, to Torrontes…

Today, I keep thinking about a Pinot Gris that I tasted last night — the 08 Albrecht Cuvee Romanus. I paired it, as it happens, with a sort of mini-Thanksgiving meal — roasted chicken, a sort of cornbread dressing studded with dried apricots, sausage, sage and other things (more about that later). And the wine was a really lovely match — fragrant but not overpoweringly so, clean, silky, fruity. Here’s the skinny on that wine, plus a few other Pinot Gris possibilities for your Thanksgiving table:

Lucien Albrecht 2008 Pinot Gris Alsace Cuvee Romanus ($20). Delicate apple blossom aromas introduce silky, intense apricot, apple and peach flavors, with juicy acidity and light mineral notes on the fresh, smooth finish. A lovely wine at a good price. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Alma Rosa 2008 Pinot Gris Sta. Rita Hills La Encantada Vineyard ($18). Juicy apricot and crisp nectarine and apple combine on a pretty, silky wine. With bright acidity on the smooth finish. Good value, too! Enjoyed with a simply grilled swordfish steak with one of those mango salsas with just a little bit of spicy heat. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area. (2009-11-11)

The Four Graces 2007 Pinot Gris Dundee Hills ($18). Very nice — with fresh ripe nectarine, floral and green fig aromas and flavors that are accented with bright minerality that lingers on the lush finish. Liked the slight pinkish tint that is characteristic of this variety, too. I included this wine on my family’s Thanksgiving table, and it was just right. Ready to drink now and over the next year or two. Locate this wine online or in your area. (2008-12-11)

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2007 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley ($15). Ripe pear and juicy red-skinned apple aromas and flavors are laced with a touch of lemon zest, offering medium-palate weight with some oak influence, and a spicy note on the finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area. (2009-08-08)