Before the Russian River Valley became the popular choice for the “best” California Pinot Noir region, Carneros seemed poised to take the crown… The theory was that Carneros benefited from the wide open channel to the cooling bay winds, and voila, great Pinot. Of course, like most generalizations about the complicated, non-hemogenous California AVAs, it wasn’t quite as simple as all that. First of all, some spots in Carneros — those hidden behind ridges and sheltered from the winds, are downright hot. And then there was the rush of clunky, over-ripe Pinots that lacked the varietal’s classic delicacy and charm, even by California standards. So fashion and critics turned (rather rapidly) to the Russian River Valley, not to mention the Anderson Valley, discarding Carneros like so much bad news.

Which is a shame, to some degree, because there’s still some lovely Pinot Noir to be found in Carneros. Like these from Saintsbury, for example:

Saintsbury 2008 Pinot Noir Carneros Garnet ($20). Dark berry and cherry aromas and flavors are laced with loam and mineral notes — and interesting play between ripe and earthy. Ready to drink now and over the next 3-4 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Saintsbury 2007 Pinot Noir Carneros ($35). I like the balance here — food friendly, supple, pretty cherry  character, with a fresh finish and deep nutmeg and clove accents. Ready to drink now and over the next 4-5 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Saintsbury 2007 Pinot Noir Carneros Stanly Ranch ($45). Very nice, with smooth, smoky plum, blueberry and cassis flavors deftly layered with delicate herbal and mushroom notes. Nice structure, acidity and supple tannins. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years. Locate this wine online or in your area. (2009-10-20)

Learn more about Saintsbury at www.saintsbury.com.