It’s that time — time to start thinking about holiday feasts. Who to invite, what to serve, which wines to go with. I’ll have more feast-worthy reds as the weeks go by, but here’s the first batch for all you advance planners:

Alma Rosa 2007 Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills El Jabali Vineyard Mt. Eden Clone ($32). My own little love affair with Alma Rosa continues with this earthy, funky (in a good way) Pinot. Offering mushroom, loam and earth notes that play off the lush plum and red berry fruit, all folding together on a complex, evolving finish. Ready to drink now and over the next seven or eight years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Saintsbury 2007 Pinot Noir Carneros Stanly Ranch ($45). Very nice, with smooth, smoky plum, blueberry and cassis flavors deftly layered with delicate herbal and mushroom notes. Nice structure, acidity and supple tannins. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Terlato 2007 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley ($60). Lovely stuff, with silky cherry and red raspberry fruit laced with light cola and chocolate notes, and a long, compelling finish. Pretty. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Louis M. Martini 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Reserve ($35). The winery has moved this bottling to a softer, more approachable style than it used to be — now it offers smooth blackberry and currant fruit laced with chocolate and dried herbs, with a long, rich finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area. (2009-07-26)

Rancho Zabaco 2006 Zinfandel Sonoma Valley Monte Rosso Vineyard Toreador ($60). Nothing shy here, with tannic structure and a hefty alcohol kick supporting concentrated black fruit — cherry, berry, plum. With accents of spicy bittersweet chocolate and black pepper on the long finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

d’Arenberg 2006 Mourvedre McLaren Vale The Twentyeight Road ($35). Concentrated, intense black cherry and plum flavors and aromas offer loads of structure and some cellar-worthiness, with dried herb and spice accents that linger on the finish. Ready to drink now and over the next five or six years. Locate this wine online or in your area.