So… anyone who reads this site knows that I’m a Calera fan. No point in trying to be coy at this point. And I recently tasted a batch of current releases that I’m going to rave about shortly. (As an aside, I actually did taste the new Calera Pinots blind, in a mix with other California Pinots, in case anyone is wondering…)

First though, I have to write about the Calera 1991 Chardonnay Mt. Harlan ($N/A) that I had the opportunity to taste recently (thanks Josh!). I did NOT taste this one blind, but have to admit that despite my general Calera fondness, I was not necessarily expecting to be bowled over by this one. Why? ‘Cuz it’s an 18-year-old California Chardonnay, and honestly — how often does that spell a still-drinkable wine? Let’s just say that although I opened it for my sister and I last weekend on an escape-from-the-kids-and-catch-up-on-Weeds evening — I had a backup wine ready.

There was no need. The wine was aged but far from tired, offering an intense greenish gold color and complex aromas and flavors of orchard fruits, musky tropical fruit, wet stone and light cream. We enjoyed every drop paired with a perfectly ripened Camembert and a fresh-from-the-oven crusty baguette. Heaven. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Now — about those new releases:

Calera 2006 Pinot Noir Mt. Harlan Jensen ($60). Beautifully structured and elegant, with delicate smoke and earth accents to the deep black fruits. Smooth, but with a hint of mineral grip on the long, pretty finish. Very nice now and over the next 8-10 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Calera 2006 Pinot Noir Mt. Harlan Selleck ($75). This one is built for aging — and definitely could use a bit more time in the bottle. Right now, its bright red fruit, herbal and mineral notes are tightly wound. But a few hours after pouring, the wine opened up nicely, gaining depth and smoothness through the finish. Drink from 2015. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Calera 2006 Pinot Noir Mt. Harlan Reed ($50). Red berry fruit aromas and flavors are layered with floral, mineral, anise and light earthy/peppery notes. Decant for short-term drinking; best after 2011. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Calera 2007 Chardonnay Mt. Harlan ($25). In a word — gorgeous. Crisp Asian pear, apple and mineral-laced citrus aromas and flavors stay focused and elegant through the full, complex, evolving finish. Very good now and over the next five or six years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

(As a final note, I am aware that I just finished raving about an 18-year-old wine as I try to estimate the longevity of the new wines… Yup, I’m probably underestimating them…)