Fall is a great time for those full-bodied Chardonnays that can seem too heavy in warmer weather — plus they work nicely with seasonal dishes like butternut squash lasagna, roasted turkey breast and pumpkin soup. Here are a few I’ve enjoyed lately:

Alma Rosa 2007 Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills El Jabali Vineyard ($28). Fruit driven, with intense, aromatic nectarine and apricot fruit layered with juicy citrus, vanilla and wet stone accents. Long, pure, clean finish. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Calera 2007 Chardonnay Mt. Harlan ($25). In a word — gorgeous. Crisp Asian pear, apple and mineral-laced citrus aromas and flavors stay focused and elegant through the full, complex, evolving finish. Very good now and over the next five or six years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Deep Sea 2008 Chardonnay Central Coast ($24). Licorice and citrus aromas introduce full-bodied, silky apple and pear fruit, with pie crust and spice accents. Finishes somewhat alcoholic. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Freemark Abbey 2007 Chardonnay Napa Valley ($20). Silky smooth, with ripe apple and melon flavors accented with baking spices and rich creme brulee notes that linger on the generous, balanced finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Penley Estate 2008 Chardonnay Coonawarra Aradia($20). New from Penley, this Chardonnay offers some nice structure behind the approachable, smooth melon and tropical citrus flavors, with a toasty finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.