Thanks to a combination of the efforts of a diligent PR rep (thanks Thea!) as well as a couple of happy coincidence moments, I’ve tasted a handful of Picpoul de Pinets lately.

Pic what, you say? Picpoul de Pinet. PICK-pool de pin-AYE. (I’ve never been too great at that phonetic spelling business, but I think that’s close enough.)

These are interesting, affordable white wines from France’s Languedoc region, made from the Picpoul Blanc grape. Ideally, they should be full bodied but with a lemony-zip — at once broad and refreshing. Lesser examples can be softer and not as compelling.

Of the five or so I’ve tasted, I had a clear favorite. The Domain Felines Jourdan 2007 Picpoul de Pinet Languedoc ($15) exactly hit that combination of refreshing, intense lemony character balanced against a full-bodied apple smoothness. Dry, mineral-laced, crisp finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.