I recently tasted three exceptional Chardonnays from Ojai Vineyards– all three offer a particular style based on proprietor/winemaker Adam Tolmach’s long history of making Chardonnay across California. After 25+ vintages, Tolmach knows what he wants: mostly neutral oak, cool climate and grapes picked early enough to ensure sufficient natural acid levels, expressive aromas and balance in the resulting wine

Anyone looking for an elegant, very good California Chardonnay, should try one (or more) of these:

Ojai Vineyard 2007 Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley Bien Nacido Vineyard ($30). Restrained toasty notes accent ripe nectarine and tropical citrus fruit, with a rather intense crisp mineral character supporting it all. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Ojai Vineyard 2007 Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley Solomon Hills Vineyard ($30). Juicy, rich, aromatic pineapple and melon fruit stays lithe and silky through the long finish, picking up lemon zest on the way. Rich but not overly so. Ready to drink now and over the next three of four years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Ojai Vineyard 2006 Chardonnay Santa Rita Hills Clos Pepe Vineyard ($40). The prettiest of the bunch, with nuanced nectarine, apricot and pineapple aromas and flavors, nice acidity through the finish, and a complex slate note that lingers deftly. Ready to drink now, but should age nicely over the next five or six years. Locate this wine online or in your area.