I recently had lunch with Mike Martini and tasted through the range of Cabernets from historic California winery, Louis M. Martini. Lunch was great fun (thanks Mike!), and the wines were — as usual — very nice.

The main thing that always strikes me about Martini Cabs is that there is a quality wine available at an impressively wide range of price points. For a California Cabernet under $20, you can hardly find a better wine than Martini’s Sonoma version. Period.

And at $25-ish, the Napa Cab is a big step up in terms of complexity — and it seems to be my year-in and year-out favorite of the lineup. Then there’s the Alexander Valley Cab at $35-ish, and the heady, ultra-premium Monte Rosso at $85…

Louis M. Martini 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County ($17). Always a good value, with deep, ripe cherry and blackberry fruit laced with dusty cocoa and earthy notes, picking up fresh herbs on the finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Louis M. Martini 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($25). Dense but balanced, with pretty black currant and cherry fruit, sage, cedar and fresh tobacco accents, and a long, plush finish. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Louis M. Martini 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Reserve ($35). The winery has moved this bottling to a softer, more approachable style than it used to be — now it offers smooth blackberry and currant fruit laced with chocolate and dried herbs, with a long, rich finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Louis M. Martini 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Valley Monte Rosso Vineyard ($85). Intense blackberry and currant aromas and flavors are layered with aromatic herbal notes, fresh tobacco and spice that linger on the full, complex finish. Ready to drink now and over the next seven to ten years. Locate this wine online or in your area.