This is shaping up to be a summer-of-Feta for me… Seems every year some one ingredient captures my summer mood and holds it for the season — some years it’s cantaloupe, or tomatoes, or mint. This year, Feta.

Apparently, in the EU, the term “Feta” is legally protected and can only be used for cheese made in Greece from sheep and goat milk. But at my local market, the word Feta is slapped on containers containing similar looking cheeses (white blocks floating in brine) from Israel, Bulgaria, and beyond. I’ve been exploring the differences — and there are differences, some are firmer, creamier, saltier, etc. than others. But they’re fine differences, and I find that I use the cheeses interchangeably.

Feta makes a wonderful foil for herbs and spices, which makes it a useful vehicle for experimenting with a variety of exotic goodies! I recently came across a package of sumakh — that Middle Eastern spice made from barberries that have been dried and ground to a deep red/purple, tangy powder. Here’s what I did:

Recipe: Marinated Feta with Sumakh
Feel free to substitute other spices or herbs. Serve with pita bread or other bread or crackers.

8 ounces feta cheese, cut into 1/2″ slices
2 teaspoons lavender vinegar (or substitute some other herb-infused vinegar, or white wine vinegar)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon hot Hungarian paprika
1/4 teaspoon dried tarragon
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon sumakh
fresh cilantro sprigs

Arrange the feta slices in a shallow dish, then drizzle or sprinkle over all other ingredients except sumakh and fresh cilantro. Marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes or in the fridge for an hour. Just before serving, sprinkle with sumakh. Serve with warm pita bread and fresh cilantro sprigs.

Wine Pairing:This could just as easily work with a high acid white like Sauvignon Blanc or a light red like Chianti, but I went with rosé for a deliciously summery pairing. Here are three widely available options:

Maison Bouachon 2008 Tavel La Rouviere ($17). Dry and crisp, with pretty red berry character accented with light herbal and citrus notes. Easy to like — and drink! Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

La Vieille Ferme Cotes du Ventoux 2008 Rosé ($9). Appealing mineral and floral notes add interest to the light cherry and red berry fruit. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Marques de Caceres 2008 Rioja Rosado ($9). Light aromas and flavors of red berries stay crisp and refreshing through the dry finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.