I had the opportunity to meet with Three Rivers winemaker Holly Turner earlier this year — and taste a lineup of current releases from this relatively new Washington winery. Just about five vintages old, Three Rivers specializes in the classic red Bordeaux varieties that Washington has built its reputation on — Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec — as well as Chardonnay, Riesling and Syrah.

I thought the wines offered very good quality — expressive fruit, balance, structure — but also good value (especially the “entry level” Columbia Valley wines). Here are my favorites:

Three Rivers 2007 Chardonnay Columbia Valley ($19). A crisp, citrusy finish offers appealing balance to the smoky oak and ripe pear aromas and flavors, for an all-around appealing wine. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Three Rivers 2006 Merlot Columbia Valley ($19). Smooth, supple, with just enough acidity and grip on the finish to balance things out. Black plum and cherry aromas and flavors are laced with mint and toast. So easy to like that you might miss the really good structure behind the wine. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Three Rivers 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley ($22). Aromatic black cherry and berry flavors are medium-bodied and ripe, with accents of roasted coffee, dark chocolate and toast that linger on the smooth, food-friendly finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Three Rivers 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills Champoux Vineyard ($50). Earth and aromatic pipe tobacco notes accent rich (but not especially full-bodied) black cherry and blackberry fruit, with a peppery kick on the moderate finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

To learn more about Three Rivers, visit its website at www.3riverswinery.com.