• Wine Region: Barolo

    by  • June 11, 2009 • All Posts, Wine Regions • 0 Comments

    cerequio_350Barolo can be a difficult topic to write about — if only because so many of these wines have price tags and a decidedly limited that really put them in reach of only a small percentage of wine-buying consumers.

    That being said, Barolo is one of the world’s great wine regions — and has been for some number of centuries — so I think it’s worth reading about even if you cannot just run out an pick up a suitably-aged bottle for tonight’s supper.

    Also, you never know when the opportunity to taste one may present itself — I was lucky enough to receive a small glass of 2001 Pio Cesare Ornato Barolo a couple of years ago in a restaurant from a neighboring table who was celebrating an anniversary and  in a generous mood. That was a good night!

    Here’s a quick primer for those who are new to the subject: Barolo is a region at the foot of the Alps in northwest Italy that specializes in the Nebbiolo grape. The wines are full of concentrated fruit and flavor — strawberry to blackberry fruit, floral (especially a signature rose note on the nose), delicate mushroom and earth nuances, tar, leather and more. They need time in the bottle to reach their best and to integrate the substantial tannins, acidity and alcohol — the best can live for many decades. In the opinion of much of the world, Barolo is simply Italy’s finest wine.

    In March I had the privilege of attending a very nice event that featured four 2004 Barolo wines in a blind tasting. The event was hosted by winemaker Stefano Chiarlo, son of Michele Chiarlo, and of course the tasting included one of their wines. To his credit, Stefano did not try to steer the group toward his wine, but instead let us take our time and draw our own personal conclusions. It was one of those tastings that you hate to see end — I enjoyed every minute of it! Here are my notes on the wine (Cerequio is the name of a noted vineyard in Barolo):

    Roberto Voerzio 2004 Barolo Cerequio ($275). Full-bodied but refined, with intense blackberry, black currant and floral notes, with firm but smooth tannins and a rich, silky, mineral-laced length. Pretty enough to be considered approachable in the short term, but the complexity it will gain over time makes it worth the wait. Drink after 2014. Locate this wine online or in your area.

    Gaja 2004 Langhe Conteisa($225). This is “declassified” Barolo made by one of the legends of the region; the 8% Barbera addition makes it outside the Barolo regulations — sort of a “super Piedmont” if you will. (Langhe is the official classification — the name of the larger region that covers Piedmont and more in the northwest.) Deeply concentrated blackberry and dark plum aromas and flavors are layered with rose, cardamom and mineral, with a silky texture and finish supported by a firm tannic structure. A few hours of decanting make this one drinkable now, but best after a few more years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

    Michele Chiarlo 2004 Barolo Cerequio ($103). Wild strawberry aromas and flavors are accented with anise, floral, delicate mushroom notes, mineral and fresh tobacco notes, with a long, silky length and chalky tannins. Best after 2012 and over the next 15-20 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

    Boroli 2004 Barolo Cerequio ($80). Black currant and blackberry fruit is laced with integrated earthy and mushroom notes and picks up silky, spicy vanilla and toast notes through the long, smooth finish. Ready to drink now and over the next decade. Locate this wine online or in your area.

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