People tend to think of Port as a cold-weather drink — best enjoyed next to a warming fireplace after a hearty meal. But trips to Portugal have convinced me of the joys of year-round Port drinking — from white Port “spritzers” to glasses of Tawny and Vintage Port after any (and all!) meals.

This time of year, I especially enjoy a slightly-chilled Tawny with summer fruit desserts. Cobblers, crisps a la mode, fruit pies, peaches drizzled with heavy cream, grilled pineapple wedges, even unadorned fresh berries (though if you wanted to add a dollop of creme fraiche, I wouldn’t complain) — all can work nicely with a glass of chilled Tawny Port.

(The other benefit of Tawny Ports — aside from the deliciously caramelized, rich flavors — is that they can be succesfully stored in the fridge, after opening, for several weeks.)

By the by, drizzling Tawny Port over ice cream is no second-rate sweet. Try it sometime!

I recently tasted the Otima line of Tawny Ports from Warre’s — both are thoughtfully made, focused and relatively affordable. Nothing syrupy here. (And check out the pointedly nontraditional packaging!)

Warre’s Otima 10-Year-Old Tawny Port (500ml, $27). Nice value here, with pretty dried apricot, sultana and candied orange peel flavors and aromas, with appealing toasty notes on the long finish. Versatile style — would work as an aperitif or with nuts and cheeses pre- or post- meal. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Warre’s Otima 20-Year-Old Tawny Port (500 ml, $45). A delicate, not too sweet style, with raisin, dried apricot, orange zest and spice notes, and a long, focused finish. Delicious paired with a creamy dessert like cheesecake or creme brulee. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Recipe: Sauteed Summer Fruit with Vanilla & Rum
This is a quick, aromatic way to turn odds and ends of summer fruit into a pulled-together dessert. Use whatever you have on hand — pineapple caramelizes beautifully, as do peaches and nectarines. And don’t forget about banana — your breakfast cereal can make the sacrifice for this! I had a handful of the season’s first cherries, as well as a pint of blueberries, so that’s what I used… Adjust quantities as needed. These proportions serve about 4 people.

3 cups fresh fruit
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
1 tablespoon sugar
1/4 cup dark rum
vanilla ice cream

In a medium saute pan, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add split vanilla bean and saute quickly, 20-30 seconds. Add fruit, beginning with the firmest — save things like berries and cherries until last — and saute. After a minute or two, sprinkle the sugar over all and continue to saute a couple of minutes more. Depending on your choice of fruit, you may get some golden caramelized edges, which are delicious. Carefully add rum and cook a minute or two more.

Serve over vanilla ice cream and alongside a glass of lightly-chilled Tawny Port!