Earlier this year, I read with sadness that Peter Newton had died. Although I never met Mr. Newton personally, the Sterling name is one that resonates with me — as it does with so many — because of it’s long history. Newton founded Sterling Vineyards in 1964, when there were only about twenty bonded wineries in all of Napa (imagine!). Sterling was one of the early leaders in Napa Cabernet, and for decades a Sterling Cab was about as good as it got.

At some point, that reputation (and, it must be said, consistent quality) got somewhat lost amidst the various giant corporations that have owned the winery since Newton and his partners sold Sterling to Coca Cola in the late 70s (Newton then founded Newton Vineyards), with subsequent corporate ownership by the likes of Seagram and (currently) Diageo.

I recently received a mailing of new releases from the winery, including the Sterling Vineyards 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Reserve ($75). If this wine is any indication, I’d say that those of you who haven’t paid much attention to Sterling lately should take another look. In fact, this wine reminded me of some of the 70s-style Sterling Cabs that I’ve been lucky enough to taste (thanks, Dad!). Winemaker Mike Westrick’s notes begin with “This wine is built for the cellar,” and he’s not kidding! Dense, closed, with substantial tannins that need time to smooth out. But the fruit is there — concentrated, intense blackberry, currant, black cherry – along with layers of sage, cocoa and dusty cedar. After decanting, and several hours of breathing, the wine started to open up and show its pretty side. But for now, cellar it for at least a few years. Drink from 2011-2021. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Now I gotta get busy decanting and tasting those other Sterling wines…