For me, summer is the best time for Zinfandel. Of course, that’s mostly because summer is also when I want to fire up the barbecue grill and get that smoky sear on all manner of beast, fowl and fish.

Whereas Zin can be, in my opinion, not nuanced enough for my cold-weather braising and roasting, it’s just perfect for chops off the grill or smoky brisket or sausages slathered in tangy barbecue sauce. I like to very-lightly chill the wine, which can take the edge off those sometimes-soaring alcohol levels and help up the refreshment quotient.

Here are a few I’ve tasted lately, at a range of price points:

Mazzocco 2006 Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Smith Orchard Reserve ($50). Big and lush and kinda sexy, with opulent wild raspberry, blueberry, caramel and baking spice aromas and flavors that pick up black pepper and dark chocolate on the long, intense finish. Ready to drink now and over the next two or three years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Frank Family Vineyards 2006 Zinfandel Napa Valley ($36). So appealing, with vibrant red berry and cherry fruit laced with black pepper, smoke, savory dried herbs and toasty vanilla that fold together on a long, rich finish. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years. Locate this wine online or in your area. (2009-03-01)

Wilson 2006 Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Carl’s Vineyard ($32). Full-bodied, with weighty black plum and berry flavors accented with loads of peppery spices and vanilla extract and smoky oak. Long, jammy, spicy finish. Ready to drink now and over the next two or three years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Wilson 2006 Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Molly’s Vineyard ($32). More concentrated and slightly more rustic than the Carl’s Vineyard Zin (above). Offers intense blackberry and black cherry aromas and flavors, with herbal and smoky pepper notes that linger on the full, alcoholic finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of two or three years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Girard 2006 Zinfandel Napa Valley Old Vine ($24). Smooth black cherry and boysenberry flavors are laced with aromatic cedar, toasted spices and mocha notes that linger on the finish. Ready to drink now and over the next two or three years. Locate this wine online or in your area. (2009-03-01)

Brazin 2006 Zinfandel Lodi Old Vine ($19). The sample I received came with some rather silly packaging, which made me wonder if the wine was going to be any good. But it turned out better than expected, with appealing tang to the jammy strawberry fruit, along with blueberry, smooth chocolate and toasty vanilla notes. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area. (2009-03-01)

Buehler Vineyards 2007 Zinfandel Napa Valley ($19). Excellent value here on a lovely, structured wine. With layers of aromatic, intense red cherry and berry, anise and smoky black peppercorn that stay bright through the finish. Ready to drink now and over the next two or three years. Locate this wine online or in your area.