Alsace is mostly known for its aromatic white wines, but a fair amount of Pinot Noir is also produced there. In fact, Pinot production is on the rise in the area, as locals are looking for something besides those famous white wines. Mostly, the Alsatian-styled Pinot is stylistically closer to Burgundy than, say, California — with color and body from oak, and cool-climate character, but not the lush ripeness that California can get.

I recently had the opportunity to taste the 03 vintage of Lucian Albrecht’s Pinot Noir Amplus and just loved it. It’s worth finding — for a Pinot that’s clearly European, offers nice structure, is food-friendly, and I think has years of cellar life in it yet.

Lucien Albrecht 2003 Pinot Noir Alsace Amplus ($46 at release, $55-ish now). Concentrated but delicate, with a mineral through-line that supports red fruit, spice and oak character. Long, compelling finish. Drinking very well now, and should continue to evolve for another three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area.