I love Alsace wines all year round — but there’s something about spring that seems to particularly suit these aromatic wines. Maybe it’s the wafts of jasmine in the air — at least in my backyard, which makes me unreservedly happy. Or perhaps it’s that the silky, flavorful lushness of these wines seem to suit the season — whereas the hot days of summer seem to need the brisk, crispness of Sauvignon Blanc.

Whatever the reason, sipping a perfumed Alsace white on a breezy spring day is a slice of heaven. (I think I hear my patio calling me now…)

Briefly, Alsace is a section of eastern France that runs along the border with Germany — and in many ways is more German than French. (For much of its history, in fact, it was part of Germany.) It differs from many European wine regions in that the name of the grape variety is on the label — a fact that makes buying and ordering them a relatively simpler task for many people.

Although other things are grown and vinified, the four grapes that you will see most are Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat. All are aromatic, with Gewurztraminer offering the most unique perfume. And all are wonderful with foods like charcuterie, smoked fish, strong cheeses — at least those are my favorite ways to pair these wines. They’re also quite popular with Asian food, from sushi to Thai curries to take-out Chinese.

Here are a few I’ve enjoyed lately:

Albert Mann 2006 Gewurztraminer Alsace ($19). Silky smooth and mouthcoating, with perfumed apricot, stonefruit, freshly grated nutmeg and floral notes. Nice value. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Domaine Ehrhart 2006 Pinot Gris Alsace Im Berg ($18). How nice is this? With aromatic layers of wildflower, fig and spice accenting white peach and apricot fruit. Stays focused through the long finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Helfrich 2007 Riesling Alsace ($13). Incredible value here, with lovely honeysuckle accents to bright nectarine fruit, picking up mineral and citrus through the creamy finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Lucien Albrecht 2006 Pinot Gris Alsace Cuvee Romanus ($19). Rich and silky, with ripe peach and tropical melon aromas and flavors that evolve into a marmalade character on the juicy finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area. (2008-12-04)

Lucien Albrecht 2006 Gewurztraminer Alsace Reserve ($19). Gewurztraminer is a love-it-or-hate-it wine, I think, and I happen to love it. And this is a good example of why I love it. With pretty marmalade, rose petal, honeycomb and spice notes that fold together on a long, rich finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area. (2008-12-04)

For more on the region and its wines, visit www.alsacewine.com.