Yes, I’m still updating this blog with old content from the old site… I suspect I will still be at it a year from now, so why pretend otherwise.

As I was going through old restaurant reviews, I came across this one about Artisanal in New York. In the seven years since I first visited, I’ve returned to Artisanal many times. And I still love it. (And I still always, every single time, start with the gougerers…)

Artisanal, New York
Let’s start with the gougeres puffs. As should you. These warm Gruyere cheese dough puffs come by the basket. Order more than one. Trust me. With cocktails or a crisp white wine – there’s no better way to kick off a meal at Artisanal, the New York restaurant famous for its cheese cellar.

But there are plenty of non-cheese dishes to enjoy on the menu, like the succulent oysters on the half shell. A beet, endive, walnut and goat cheese salad was just right. As was an onion and Beaufort cheese tart. We’ve sampled a couple of chicken dishes, a “brick chicken” flattened version that was moist inside and crispy outside. And a paillard that was delicate and perfectly cooked. We felt compelled to order fondue on one occasion. We chose a white truffle infused version, and it was delicious.

Artisanal has a brasserie feel, with mostly bistro food. It’s the kind of place we could happily visit weekly, if not daily. Big deco light fixtures. Casual tables. Brisk, buzzy atmosphere. The wine list is mostly French and boasts some 100 choices by the glass.

On one visit, a dining companion had a sweet tooth and dug into an inventive version of Tarte Tartin with cheddar cheese in the crust. It was outstanding.

However you cannot (and will not) skip the cheese course. In our case, we routinely and happily skip sweets in favor of cheese, so at Artisanal it was a no-brainer. From the countless dozens of cheese choices, it was a little overwhelming. And to be honest, I’m not sure how we ended up with the cheese selection that arrived. It was an array of tastes, served with fresh fruit and bits of sweet fig cake and dates. Somewhere along the way was a 6-year aged Gouda that was unlike any Gouda we’d ever tried. The crumbly crystals were almost Parmesan-like, but with a creamier, smokier taste. We officially have a new favorite cheese.

Not to mention a new favorite midtown brasserie. (december 2002)

Artisanal
2 Park Ave (entrance on 32nd Street)
New York, NY 10016
Tel: 212.725.8585