People ask me fairly frequently to name my favorite wine. I always respond by saying that I don’t really have a favorite, but that I do develop meaningful, if somewhat fleeting, crushes on various wines or regions. The objects of my affections at any given moment tend to include regions that seem to be on some kind of a roll — at least in my recent tasting experience.

For me, at the moment, Argentina’s inexpensive Malbecs seem to have gotten noticeably better and more complex. Sicily is hard to beat right now, not least for the sheer speed at which it has gone from being known for undistinguished bulk wine to really interesting, good values. And virtually everything I’ve tasted from Santa Barbara County over the past year or so has been absolutely delicious.

Santa Barbara County includes several subregions that you’re likely to find on labels: Santa Maria Valley, Santa Rita Hills, Santa Ynez Valley and Los Alamos Valley. The way things have been going in my recent tastings, I’d say any of those names are a pretty good bet!

This includes a lineup of wines from Byron, one of the earliest winemaking pioneers of the region. The winery was part of the Legacy Estates Group, along with Freemark Abbey and Arrowood, when Kendall-Jackson founder Jess Jackson purchased the Group in 2006.

So the 2006 harvest — which includes all the wines I tasted for this article — was the first vintage, start to finish, under the Jackson family ownership. According to winemaker Jonathan Nagy, who became Director of Winemaking for Byron in 2003, the entire team is rededicated and the vineyards are “in the best shape ever.”

Byron 2006 Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley Nielson Vineyard ($27). Had an appealing lime and tangerine quality beneath the cream, pear and honey flavors. With a long, silky finish. Very nice. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area. (2009-03-23)

Byron 2006 Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley Historic Vines ($35). Appealing for its pretty, clean tangerine and apricot notes accenting a core of crisp pear. Long, mouthwatering finish gains in complexity, picking up delicate cream, toast and spice notes. Ready to drink now and over the next two or three years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Byron 2006 Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Nielson Vineyard ($28). It’s easy to fall for this one, with its bright, ripe red berry and cherry fruit accented with sweet earth, clove, allspice and a lush, smoky finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Byron 2006 Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Bien Nacido Vineyard ($39). Quite nice, with delicate floral accents to the pretty red berry and plum fruit, with slight mushroom and earthy notes emerging on the supple, slightly smoky finish. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Byron 2006 Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Sierra Madre Vineyard ($40). Deeply perfumed, with floral notes accenting black cherry and bright plum fruit, picking up touches of earth, coffee and spice on the lush, smooth finish. Delicious now and over the next six or seven years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Byron 2006 Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley Monument ($60). Pretty rose petal aromas mingle with ripe red berry and cherry fruit, with spicy, toasty oak and a nice balance between the rich, slightly jammy character, silky tannins, and the bright finish. Very good now and over the next five or six years. Locate this wine online or in your area.