My friend Joe makes what has to be the world’s most garlicky Caesar salad. It is ever-changing otherwise — the amounts of anchovies and cheese seem to vary in a hard-to-pinpoint relationship to the amount of wine I’ve plied Joe with during the preparation of said salad. But the garlic remains the same. It is seriously, warding off vampires, even your pets’ eyes will water when they smell your breath, garlicky.

I crave it.

The wines we pair with it have varied over the years. On one level, it doesn’t much matter, because the garlic wins that tastebud battle every time. But wine does work here — and this weekend we opened a few high end California Chardonnays. I liked this pairing. The wine was a cooling, lush, silky contrast to that garlicky bite, and we all enjoyed every last sip and forkful.

I can hear some of you now wondering why I would take some really nice Chardonnays and subject them to this. Look, I’m not saying there was anything subtle about this pairing — but in the world of bold, strong flavors, this was a winner. So the next time you’re in the mood to up the garlic quotient in your version of a Caesar salad, give it a try!

Frank Family 2007 Chardonnay Napa Valley ($33). Oh so nice, with vibrant citrus and nectarine flavors playing off smooth pear, toasted vanilla, buttery toast and bright spice notes. Long, lush finish. Just delicious. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Byron 2006 Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley Nielson Vineyard ($27). Had an appealing lime and tangerine quality beneath the cream, pear and honey flavors. With a long, silky finish. Very nice. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Wild Horse 2007 Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley Bien Nacido Vineyards Unbridled ($24). Pretty apricot and pear fruit pick up aromatic baking spice notes and fold into a long, creamy, vanilla-laced, nutty finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.