If you’re one of the many who think that the world of Italian wine is practically impenetrable beyond Chianti, then I’m not sure how much this article on Alto Adige is going to change your mind…

Alto Adige, located in Northern Italy, is not only one of the country’s smallest viticultural regions, it is also one of its most diverse. With vineyards located at altitudes from 650- to 3250 feet above sea level, site climates vary from Alpine cold to Mediterranean. As a result, a wide range of grapes are cultivated to suit the various climate/weather combinations — a mix of local and international varieties that includes Schiava, Lagrein, Pinot Grigio, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Sylvaner, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and several others.

Why should you try to crack this code? Well, if the concept of well-made, structured wines with bright acidity, aging potential and pretty, balanced fruit character that offer very good quality (nearly 99% of the region is registered for DOC wines) and affordable prices appeals to you — then you should definitely start exploring the wines from Alto Adige.

And it is a bit of an exploration effort – roughly 25% of the region’s 150+ wineries and co-ops currently sell their wines in the U.S., and many of those are in small quantities. So you may or may not find the specific wine that you’re looking for at any given moment in your local wine stores or online. But I would suggest keeping an eye out for Alto Adige — both on the shelves and on restaurant wine lists.

So take a chance on a wine from Alto Adige — the odds of getting something very good are in your favor!

To learn more about the region, visit www.altoadigewines.com. Here are three Alto Adige wines that I’ve recently enjoyed:

Peter Zemmer 2006 Gewurztraminer Alto Adige Riserva ($26). Full-bodied, with loads of varietal character, like rose petal, lychee, apricot and a bit of smoke. Smooth, unctuous. Loved it. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

St. Michael Eppan 2006 Pinot Nero Alto Adige Riserva ($27). Very light and delicate, nearly pale, but appealing for its fresh red berry and currant character, with mineral and mushroom notes that linger on the finish. Ready to drink now and over the next two or three years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Muri Gries 2005 Lagrein Alto Adige ($37). Violet, black currant and berry aromas and flavors are backed with bright acidity. Refreshing, vibrant, the opposite of heavy-handed, and quite food friendly. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area.