I was a little late to the Semillon Appreciation Society — at least as far as wine geeks go. (I realize that to many of you that’s a bit like hearing that the high school Dungeons & Dragons club had uniforms… There was a club?)

You may have had one version of Semillon (which is the name of a grape) without even realizing it. If you’ve ever had a glass of Sauternes — perhaps with foie gras or as a dessert wine — then you have tasted the famous sweet version of Semillon. And if you’re one of those white Bordeaux types and drink Graves, then you’ve tasted the most famous dry wine version of the grape.

Outside France, Semillon has struggled to find a role. When I was in Australia a few years ago, I had the opportunity to taste quite a few versions, mostly blended with Sauvignon Blanc in inexpensive everyday styles. And I was not overly excited about them. Semillon adds body and palate weight to a Sauvignon Blanc, but it can also be a rather neutralizing ingredient as it doesn’t offer much in the way of aromas or even flavor when compared to Sauv Blanc. So for me, at least with the wines I tasted, it just seemed to drag down the liveliness of the wine. The one exception was an aged dry Semillon (I think it had about 10 years on in) that I got to taste over a lunch. I’ve somehow misplaced my notes on the name of the wine, but its complexity and intensity impressed me.

So… I’ve mostly shrugged at any non-French Semillon I’ve come across since, not that there’ve been many.

But then I was in Napa recently and stopped by the Old Bridge Cellars offices there with Denise Ehrlich, one of the company’s regional Sales Directors. Among the wines we tasted were two Semillons from Brokenwood winery in Australia’s Hunter Valley. They were both knockouts — very different from each other, but both very good. Since then, I’ve tasted a third Brokenwood Semillon and flat out loved it, too.

I don’t know if it’s some kind of Brokenwood magic, or if Hunter Valley Semillon just particularly appeals to me, but suffice it to say that I have a whole new outlook on the stuff based on these three wines.

In this economy, I’m not sure I envy folks trying to sell restaurant and retail wine buyers in the U.S. on Semillon (though what do I know… maybe it’s going better than I imagine), but if any of you are looking for something to shake up your wine palate and get you excited about something new in the wine world, you should really track down one or all of these wines:

Brokenwood 2007 Semillon Hunter Valley ($20). Racy lime aromas and flavors stay focused from beginning to end, with grassy character and some pear fruit mid-palate and a slate note on the finish. Super refreshing and clean. This totally works now (think this Spring and Summer as an aperitif or with shellfish), but I would also be really interested to try it again in five or six years. So maybe buy some for now and some for later! Locate this wine online or in your area.

Brokenwood 2004 Semillon Hunter Valley Oakley Creek Vineyard ($32). Smooth and supple, with juicy apple, lemongrass and citrus aromas and flavors that mingle on a balanced, integrated frame. Long, intense, slightly creamy finish. This one seemed rather complete to me, so I would drink it sooner than later, say within the next couple of years. And I’d pair it with something like an upscale picnic or dinner al fresco of grilled or fried chicken and a French-style potato salad. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Brokenwood 2003 Semillon Hunter Valley ILR Reserve ($48). Iain Riggs is the winemaker, so I’m guessing ILR are his initials, and he surely must be justifiably proud to put his name on this lovely wine. Released after five years of bottle aging at the winery, the wine offers bright citrus aromas and flavors layered with lemongrass, musky melon and some nuttiness, and a rich, complex finish. Delicious now but should also age well for another six to eight years. I would pair this with best quality white-fleshed fish, simply grilled and seasoned. Locate this wine online or in your area.