This is a great go-to sauce when you want to spruce up simply grilled or broiled meats — it works with anything from lamb chops to pork tenderloin to steaks, and I dare say it wouldn’t suck on hamburger patties! I like it with a juicy Zinfandel, so I’ve included a few of those that I’ve enjoyed recently, at a variety of prices.

Recipe: Sauce: Port Reduction Sauce
Makes about 3/4 cup

1 750-ml bottle Tawny Port
1 cup concentrated chicken stock
1 stick unsalted butter, cut into pieces and chilled until very cold

Pour Port into a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and cook at a low boil until reduced to a thick, syrupy 1/3 cup. Add chicken stock and continue to cook until the volume is reduced by about half.

Reduce heat to low and add the butter — a few pieces at a time — whisking constantly. When those pieces of butter have been almost completely incorporated, add a few more, whisking constantly. Continue until all butter has been added and sauce is thickened and shiny. If sauce begins to “break” remove from heat and whisk until it stabilized.

(You can also fill a large bowl with icy water as a backup — if sauce begins to break, remove from heat and plunge bottom of saucepan into cold water and whisk, whisk, whisk! It will come back together and you can continue with adding butter.)

Frank Family 2006 Zinfandel Napa Valley ($36). So appealing, with vibrant red berry and cherry fruit laced with black pepper, smoke, savory dried herbs and toasty vanilla that fold together on a long, rich finish. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Grgich Hills 2006 Zinfandel Napa Valley($35). Quite nice, showing some ripeness restraint and layers of complexity that justify the pricetag. With blackberry and black cherry aromas and flavors accented with licorice, anise, black peppercorn and a touch of sweet earth. Long finish. Ready to drink now and over the next four or five years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Mazzocco 2006 Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Lytton ($29). Intense red berries and cherry flavors, with aromatic cedar, spice and pepper accents and a noticeable alcohol kick that builds through the finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Girard 2006 Zinfandel Napa Valley Old Vine ($24). Smooth black cherry and boysenberry flavors are laced with aromatic cedar, toasted spices and mocha notes that linger on the finish. Ready to drink now and over the next two or three years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Brazin 2006 Zinfandel Lodi Old Vine ($19). The sample I received came with some rather silly packaging, which made me wonder if the wine was going to be any good. But it turned out better than expected, with appealing tang to the jammy strawberry fruit, along with blueberry, smooth chocolate and toasty vanilla notes. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Castle Rock 2006 Zinfandel Mendocino County ($10). Nice for the price, with straightforward but enjoyable red cherry, vanilla and black pepper aromas and flavors. Shows a bit of grip on the finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.