I usually make at least a cursory effort at writing something original rather than just lazily quoting the information included in the brochure-type information that tends to accompany wines sent to me for review. But in this case I’m making an exception.

“I blame Syrah’s recent fall from grace on winemakers going overboard with these wines and delivering too much of a good thing. Balance is everything in wine, and many consumers rejected Syrahs that were so over the top that they failed to deliver savory and fresh impressions.

Interestingly, if you ask an owner of a wine shop or sommelier what they think of Syrah today, they will tell you it is great, and are confounded why consumers aren’t thrilled by Syrah anymore. I think the confusion is that wine professionals are talking about good Syrahs that have all the attributes that make them food friendly, not the bad, sweet, soft and heavy Syrahs that consumers can’t relate to.”

I went back and re-read the cover letter from owner/winemaker Adam Tolmach that included these paragraphs after I tasted The Ojai Vineyard samples, because the wines were really good. And I thought that the letter did a nice job of summing up exactly why so many people are stuck in a permanent shrug about California Syrah. They (we) have simply all kissed a fair number of frogs in search of a prince. We still believe the prince is out there, we just get worn out from looking.

But back to wine… The three Ojai Vineyard samples I tasted were delish — ripe and intense, but balanced. Complex. Compelling. Worth finding!

The Ojai Vineyard 2006 Syrah Santa Barbara County ($27). Concentrated black plum and blackberry fruit stays focused through the finish, with fresh acidity, deep baking spice and tobacco notes, and nicely integrated tannins. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

The Ojai Vineyard 2005 Syrah Ojai Valley Roll Ranch Vineyard ($45). Inky purple in color. Very nice aromas and flavors including silky, concentrated blackberry and black currant fruit, fresh earth, smoky black pepper and dark chocolate notes that linger on the generous, smooth finish. Ready to drink now and over the next four to six years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

The Ojai Vineyard 2006 Syrah Santa Rita Hills Melville Vineyards ($45). The richest and ripest of the three, but still offering a refreshing quality, with black cherry and berry flavors accented with coffee, dark chocolate and aromatic, peppery spice. Shows some grip on the finish. Ready to drink now (a little decanting time would help smooth out those tannins!) and over the next four or five years. Locate this wine online or in your area.