I came across a bottle of the Rosemount 1998 Shiraz McLaren Vale-Langhorne Creek Show Reserve ($24 at release) about a week ago and popped the cork for supper. It was so good that I don’t even remember what I paired it with, though it surely was some kind of simply grilled meat and veg. In ’98, Robert Oatley was still at the helm and making terrific wines like this — well-priced, built to last. Frankly, I think it could have held on another year or two, but I’m glad I didn’t wait. Deep, smoky blackberry, dried currant, fennel, toast, light spices, all folding together on a complex and still fruity finish. If you can find a bottle — buy it! Locate this wine online or in your area.