A very helpful salesperson at a local cheese counter suggested this cheese, and I will definitely be buying it again. The Ford Farm Coastal Mature Cheddar offers those little crystals — like an aged Parmesan or Gouda — that you either love or hate. I happen to love them, or maybe I just love the cheeses that happen to have them… Either way, this English cheddar is a compelling balance of aged character, nibbly texture,  and clean, nearly fruity and grassy flavors, with just a touch of earthiness. It strikes me as very versatile, and would be a delicious ploughman’s lunch cheddar, along with some sliced apple, onion, crusty bread and a beer.

I paired it with a Cabernet Sauvignon, and it didn’t need a single adornment — though I think it would also work thinly shaved over cold sliced roast beef in a kind of British faux carpaccio. My half-pound piece cost $6.50, which I thought was pretty reasonable for this quality.

A cheese this good deserves a special wine — if you have some nicely aged Cabernets, this would be a good time to pull one out. Or check out either of these delicious versions I’ve enjoyed lately:

Mount Veeder 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($40). As advertised, this Cab offers plenty of bramble, sage and cedar accents that stop short of being full-on rustic. With deep, dark cherry and blackberry fruit, dusty cocoa and sweet, smoky spices that linger on the smooth finish. Well-integrated tannins offer support and structure. Benefits from some decanting now. Drink over the next 8-10 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Sbragia Family Vineyards 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Valley Monte Rosso Vineyard ($50). Deeply concentrated, with dark purple, aromatic black fruit flavors — blackberry, cherry, currant — laced with mint, tobacco and spicy vanilla. Just an overall pretty wine, with a smooth texture supported by well-integrated chalky tannins and a long finish. Delicious now and over the next 8-10 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.