I recently tasted this Canadian cheddar-style goat cheese for the first time — and think it’s a great, versatile find. Firm like a cheddar, it offers nutty, nibbly, slightly tangy flavors with a mouthcoating creamy texture and a rich, finish with hints of caramel.

I used a few slices in a cold steak salad recently, but I think it would also make a terrific omelet. And I can imagine it being delicious used alongside an apple pie in place of the traditional cheddar… It’s tasty all on it’s own, or it would work nicely with some walnut raisin bread and fresh fruit. As I said — it’s versatile!

And it’s a striking looking little number, too – with the creamy off-white cheese thickly encased in shiny black wax.

I paired my steak and Chevre Noir salad (just a mix of greens, seasoned and topped with olive oil — no vinegar — with slices of cold steak, the cheese and a sprinkling of toasted walnuts) with a big, earthy Syrah. The contrast between the intense wine and the rich steak and cheese slices worked like a charm!

Cambria 2005 Syrah Santa Maria Valley Tepusquet Vineyard ($18). Excellent value here, with dense blackberry and black currant fruit laced with vanilla bean, sweet earth, spice and toast lingering on the firm finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.