I think it’s safe to say that 2008 has been a challenging year in a number of ways… Personally, I’ll be toasting to the end of current year as much as I’ll be welcoming in the new one. And there will definitely be toasting. If not with actual Champagne, then with some really good bubbly from somewhere else.

And, honestly, if it’s domestic bubbles you’re after — can you do much better than Iron Horse Vineyards? These are some lovely wines — if you don’t believe me, just ask the last five U.S. Presidential administrations, not to mention the Pope, who was the guest of honor at an April White House dinner where Iron Horse’s Russian River Cuvee was served.

Need another reason? These wines are roughly half the price of most nonvintage Champagne — welcome news these days! Here are my notes on their most recent crop of sparklings:

Iron Horse 2005 Wedding Cuvée Green Valley of Russian River Valley ($38). I think it’s the mineral notes on the finish that makes this one my favorite. (Or maybe it’s the pretty orange blossom and cinnamon aromas.) With crisp green pear and Granny Smith apple flavors that stay focused through the complex, mineral-laced finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Iron Horse 2002 Blanc de Blancs Green Valley of Russian River Valley ($38). Aromatic lime and yeast notes accent crisp green apple and pear fruit, with touches of cream and spice appearing on the pretty finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Iron Horse 2002 Brut Green Valley of Russian River Valley Classic Vintage ($33). Appealing balance of fresh green pear and citrus aromas and flavors play off deeper, yeasty notes and warm spices. With a persistent, evolving finish. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Iron Horse 2003 Russian Cuvée Green Valley of Russian River Valley ($33). If you like a touch of sweetness in your bubbly — whether for an aperitif, or to pair with spicy foods or a dessert cheese course (I could totally see this wine with a  plate of creamy cheeses and slices of date-almond or fig cake, or paired with honey-drizzled fresh goat cheese…) — then this is your wine. With ripe apple fruit, pie crust, baking spices and fig notes that linger on the finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.