I first tasted a Four Graces wine about a year and a half ago, when a sample of their 2005 Pinot Gris showed up at my door. It was spectacularly good — it tasted like “Spring in a glass,” (or so I was inspired to write) with smooth peach, fig and honeysuckle character on a silky frame. I thought it was well worth its $18 pricetag.

The Four Graces winery is based in Oregon’s Dundee Hills, where Steve and Paula Black purchased 110 acres in 2003. Named after the couple’s four daughters (brother Nicholas is recognized on the Reserve Pinot as the “keeper of the Four Graces”), the winery and consulting winemaker Laurent Montalieu produce small lots of Pinot Noir, PInot Gris and PInot Blanc that offer delicacy, finesse and really lovely fruit.

Here are my notes on two new (and one upcoming) release:

The Four Graces 2007 Pinot Gris Dundee Hills ($18). Very nice — with fresh ripe nectarine, floral and green fig aromas and flavors that are accented with bright minerality that lingers on the lush finish. Liked the slight pinkish tint that is characteristic of this variety, too. I included this wine on my family’s Thanksgiving table, and it was just right. Ready to drink now and over the next year or two. Locate this wine online or in your area. (Actually, this one’s not scheduled for release until March 2009.)

The Four Graces 2006 PInot Noir Willamette Valley ($27). On the light, elegant side, with red berry and pomegranate fruit laced with baking spices, chocolate and a delicate earthy note. Nicely balanced — the kind of wine I could drink everyday. Ready to drink now and over the next three or four years. Locate this wine online or in your area. (2008-11-22)

The Four Graces 2006 Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Reserve ($42). The word “lovely” just keeps popping up with me about these wines, and here I go again… Lovely — and I was so glad that it didn’t go the way of so many Reserves and just get heavier. It maintains a definite delicacy and feminine character while gaining intensity, with pretty black plum and berry fruit laced with spicy dark chocolate and sweet, fresh tobacco notes that linger on the persistent finish. Ready to drink now and over the next five or six years. Locate this wine online or in your area.