I was back in Napa last weekend and headed straight to my favorite restaurant, Bistro Jeanty. (In fact, I’d say that this is one of my favorite French restaurants on this side of the Atlantic…)

Bistro Jeanty is a cozy, two-room place that, frankly, can feel a little noisy and cramped — although the patio is a more spacious option. But either way, the food is so good that I’d be willing to just stand in the corner with a plate.

Standout starters include a decadent, unforgettable crock of duck and goat cheese rillettes (sort of a country-style pâté) that is served with french bread and cornichons. And then there’s the signature cream of tomato soup with a puff pastry top. It’s great looking and delicious. The escarole salad with a soft boiled egg is a bistro classic, and the rabbit terrine is a rustic, chunky, satisfying version served with grated celery root in a creamy mustard-dressing.

Over the years, I’ve sampled a range of main courses. From a light and buttery sole meunière served with mashed potatoes, to steamed mussels served in a tomato saffron broth with plenty of crusty french bread.

This go-round, I went for a blackboard special of roasted pork shoulder that was fork tender and perched on a cinnamon-spiked butternut squash gratin. The roasted Brussels sprouts that came alongside were some of the best I’ve ever tasted. I don’t know what they did to make them so good, but I suspect there was plenty of butter involved.

My dining companion had the cassoulet, as I have on plenty of occasions in the past. It is a generous casserole of beans, duck confit, sausage, bacon (and on this occasion, some sliced pork) with a buttery crumb topping. I honestly don’t know of a place in the world that makes a cassoulet that I prefer to this one.

The wine list at Bistro Jeanty always has great choices at a variety of prices — we went for a Gigondas that was absolutely delicious at about $50.

We did not do dessert this go round, but I seem to remember thinking that the chocolate creme brulee is one of the best desserts ever in the world. And I’ve had several fruit tart moments at Bistro Jeanty — all were good.

All in all, I don’t get much happier about restaurants than I do about Bistro Jeanty!

Bistro Jeanty, 6510 Washington St., Yountville, CA 94599, (707) 944-0103.