During the past few months of wine tasting around here, one of the wineries that keeps coming out on top of the heap is Lucien Albrecht.

This Alsace-based family winery has a long history in the wines of the region, with the name Albrecht showing up in historical records dating back to the early 1400s. The winery’s website has a wonderful history section with copies of documents and anecdotes that is well worth a read. (Just use the “next” link at the bottom right of each page to move through the section.)

Lucien Albrecht's 16th-century Cellar

Over the centuries, various Albrechts held important posts in the wine guilds of the day, and the family was involved not only in winemaking, but in the development of Alsace as an important wine region. In the 1960s and 70s, Lucien Albrecht expanded the family business, adding new cellars and increasing vineyard holdings in the various villages. In 1972, he was a pioneer of Cremant d’Alsace, a key regional AC for sparkling wine — it’s made in the “Champagne method” and is perhaps France’s most important sparkling wine outside of Champagne.

Today, Jean Albrecht (Lucien’s son) runs the show as chief winemaker and vineyard manager. And judging by the wines I’ve tasted lately, I’d say he’s doing a bang-up job. Not only have they been delicious, they are actually quite good values — an important thing these days!

Lucien Albrecht NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Cremant d’Alsace ($19). Very nice for the price, with crisp Granny Smith apple and a creamy lemon mousse character. Fresh, food friendly, easy to like. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Lucien Albrecht NV Brut Rose Cremant d’Alsace ($23). Moderate red cherry and berry fruit offers some crisp, tart character, with a light spiciness on the finish. Versatile with food. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Lucien Albrecht 2006 Gewurztraminer Alsace Reserve ($19). Gewurztraminer is a love-it-or-hate-it wine, I think, and I happen to love it. And this is a good example of why I love it. With pretty marmalade, rose petal, honeycomb and spice notes that fold together on a long, rich finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Lucien Albrecht 2006 Pinot Gris Alsace Cuvee Romanus ($19). Rich and silky, with ripe peach and tropical melon aromas and flavors that evolve into a marmalade character on the juicy finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Lucian Albrecht 2006 Riesling Alsace Reserve ($18). Versatile for its everyday appeal, even to non-Riesling drinkers. With juicy green apple accented by moderate citrus and floral notes that mingle on a fresh, lightly mineral finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area. (2008-10-30)