I don’t find so many Fume Blancs that I particularly like — usually I think that when you combine all that oak with Sauvignon Blanc’s grapefruity character, all you end up with is bitter and smoky.

But this Chateau St. Jean 2007 Fume Blanc Sonoma County ($13) is not only a pleasure, it’s a real bargain. The oak stays in the background, offering some complexity and support to the clean, crisp, aromatic grapefruit, tropical melon, lemongrass and honeysuckle notes that linger on the finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Food Pairing Idea: This wine is awfully good all on its own, but it would work nicely with this seasonal salad:

Recipe: Fennel, Apple & Walnut Salad with French Cheeses
I love the contrast in texture and flavors here, with the crunchy fennel, crisp fall apples and toasted walnuts paired with creamy French cheeses. Serve with crusty bread. Serves 6.

8 oz. each of 3 creamy French cheeses, like Boursin, Brie, Chaumes, Florette, Fourme d’Ambert, Camembert, Goat Camembert, Le Chevrot Blanc, Morbier, Pont L’Eveque and Reblochon – softened to serving temperature (not too cold!)

5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon
1 medium shallot, minced
kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper
¾ cup walnuts, toasted lightly in a dry skillet
2 large fennel bulbs
1 red apple
2 tablespoons minced Italian parsley

In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, minced shallot and a pinch of salt and pepper. Set aside.

Trim fennel stalks, then remove outer layer of fennel bulb. Using a mandolin or sharp knife, slice the fennel bulbs very thinly. Place in serving bowl.

Quarter and core the apple. Cut quarters crosswise into thin slices. Add to fennel. Add toasted walnuts and minced parsley and toss. Add dressing and toss again. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Serve alongside cheese board, allowing each guest to serve themselves cheese selection and salad portion.