I have to admit that Grenache is just not one of my favorite grapes — If I had to choose, I’d go with Northern over Southern Rhone reds. But beyond that, most of the varietal Grenache wines I’ve tasted out of Australia (where they make loads of the stuff) taste somewhat green and stemmy to me. Just not my thing, I suppose.

But there are exceptions — when the pretty, soft red berry fruit and floral accents of the Grenache grape manages to outweigh the tannins and eucalyptus notes that so many of the Aussie versions seem to have, it can be really delicious.

I recently re-tasted the d’Arenberg 2006 Grenache McLaren Vale The Custodian ($19). And this time, as it happens, the bottle was opened about an hour before I got back around to tasting it. And what a difference that breathing time seemed to make! It offered up lovely, fresh strawberry and delicate red cherry fruit, pretty violet accents, and appealing anise and toast notes. Yes, there is plenty of tannic grip, but the fruit hangs in there through the long finish. Nice value, too. It should age nicely for four or five years, or drink now after decanting. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Food Pairing: Grilled Lamb Chops with Herbes de Provence
There’s not much better than grilled lamb chops, with their crispy edges and pink centers. This simple marinade, with its lavender-laced herb mix, really brought out the floral quality of the wine! Serves 4.

2 1/2 pounds lamb chops, “frenched”
1/4 cup Herbes de Provence
4 cloves garlic, crushed
extra virgin olive oil
kosher salt
freshly cracked black pepper

Place chops in a large bowl or baking dish. Sprinkle with herbs and crushed garlic. Drizzle over enough olive oil to lightly coat, turning chops to cover. Refrigerate for 6-8 hours, turning every couple of hours. Remove from refrigerator about an hour before you intend to cook them. Season with salt and pepper.

Grill over medium-hot coals for just two or three minutes on each side, depending on the size of the chops. Arrange on a platter and serve.