What began as a mild obsession about the concept of butternut squash confit turned into quite a tasty wine and cheese pairing…

I had recently read the words “squash confit” in some magazine or another, and the idea stuck with me. So I took about a cup of diced butternut squash and simmered it gently in about 1/2 cup olive oil and a light sprinkling of salt until the squash was super tender but not falling apart, about 40 minutes. Then I let it cool in the oil.

While the squash was cooking, I rummaged around to see what I could put with it for a light supper. I had five or six fresh plum tomatoes, so I oven-roasted them (see recipe below). Then I placed a thick slice of fresh goat cheese on each plate, topped it with a couple of tomato halves and a sprinkling of butternut squash cubes. Some crusty bread was all it needed, although if I’d had any fresh sage, I would have frizzled it in some hot oil and topped each serving with a leaf or two.

For the wine, I opened three very different Rieslings. Ultimately, I preferred the Alsace version, but all three were appealing in their ways. The squash is really interesting this way, silky and luscious. I could see serving it alongside Thanksgiving turkey or roasted chicken in place of sweet potatoes. No butter needed, just taste for seasoning!

Lucian Albrecht 2006 Riesling Alsace Reserve ($18). Versatile for its everyday appeal, even to non-Riesling drinkers. With juicy green apple accented by moderate citrus and floral notes that mingle on a fresh, lightly mineral finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Clos du Bois 2007 Riesling California ($12). Floral aromas and flavors lace crisp nectarine and juicy apple notes, staying fresh through the moderate finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Blue Fish 2007 Sweet Riesling Pfalz ($11). Sweet, yes, but with exuberant, balancing acidity that makes it totally drinkable. With pretty peach and pineapple aromas and flavors that stay fruity through the finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Recipe: Oven-Roasted Tomatoes
Slice 12 plum tomatoes in half lengthwise and carefully spoon out seeds.

Line a baking sheet with foil, then brush the foil with a bit of olive oil, sprinkle with kosher salt, and strew with three sliced garlic cloves and a few torn basil leaves. Place the tomatoes, cut side down, on the foil, nudging them around a bit to be sure to get some oil and salt on the cut surfaces. Season tops of tomatoes with a light drizzle of olive oil, pinches of kosher salt, pepper and sugar. Bake at 200F for a couple of hours, flipping them over halfway through, until very tender but still holding their shape. Let cool on the pan.