Like every other trip I have ever taken to France, at some point my trip to Bordeaux this summer became all about the cheese. Well, the wine and the cheese. After a few days of restaurant hopping, I realize that all I really want to do is raid a local market, pick up a variety of cheeses, some bread and a couple of bottles of inexpensive regional wine. Then I just want to enjoy my goodies at some pretty picnic-worthy spot. (Not hard to find in France.)

I was first turned-on to Saint Marcellin cheese at L’Envers du Décor, a wine bar and restaurant in St.-Emilion that had come highly recommended by numerous travel articles and wine industry friends. Overall, I found the place to be a bit of a disappointment… A spectacular courtyard was in desperate need of better lighting and a bit of music. But beyond that, the food was just not up to snuff. A really tough entrecôte steak, bland foie gras, mediocre veal… it all added up to a rather ordinary meal. The wine list is, admittedly, spectacular. With a wide range of Bordeaux wines, loads of older vintages and plenty of by-the-glass choices. I’d suggest going for the wine, and if you’re feeling peckish, go for the charcuterie starter – it was probably the best thing we had, with a variety of thinly sliced meats and cornichons.

And then there was the cheese course. The Saint Marcellin (cow’s milk) we had at L’Envers was on the young side, so it was quite weepy and soft. Aromatic, yes. But not quite stinky. All you need is a bit of crusty bread for slathering. Oh, and some good red wine. Heaven!

We were in St.-Emilion, so we naturally chose a local wine. It was the Chateau La Grave Figeac 2005 St.-Emilion (€50 on the wine list). It was very nice, feminine, with violet and red fruit aromas and flavors, silky texture and a long finish. It’s a little young now, but with some decanting and breathing time, it opened up quite nicely. Best from 2010-2015. Locate this wine online or in your area.

I see that Saint Marcellin is carried at New York’s Artisinal cheese shop and available for online ordering. I may just have to do that for the holidays, if I cannot find it locally…