The vast majority of the wines that I taste — and that you probably see in the stores — are made from a rather short list of grapes. Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Zinfandel. A couple of others.

But there are literally thousands of grape varieties being cultivated around the world, and in between the major wine varieties and the truly obscure ones is a whole host of grapes that have considerable regional importance but not much worldwide recognition.

Godello is such a grape. It’s a white grape native to parts of Spain and Portugal (where it is called Gouveio), and it makes a silky, aromatic white wine.

Prounced “go DAY yo,” Godello is most important in the Galicia region of northwestern Spain where the warm, sunny climate and well-drained soils make a happy home for this grape. Galicians have grown the grape for generations, but “modern” Godello mostly dates from the 1990s and post-Phylloxera plantings and rehabilitated Godello vineyards.

Godello typically presents as a full-bodied, silky, medium-acidity wine, with pear, apple, floral, and light citrus aromas and flavors, with an intense mineral character.

The traditional food match is seafood, especially the local Galician shellfish specialties like scallops, mussels, clams, lobster, crab and oysters. In fact, the scallop shell is the longtime symbol of Galicia and the ancient Camino de Santiago pilgrimage. Pilgrams walking the journey would bring back Galician scallop shells as proof that they completed the journey to the “end of the world” which at that time was the western coast of Spain.

My advice is to try whatever Godello you find at a good local wine store — you probably won’t have a wide range to choose from, but it’s worth trying to find at least one or two!

I recently tasted a Godello at a fantastic Spanish wine tasting featuring the wines of Jorge Ordonez and hosted by Master Sommelier Sara Floyd. The tasting was over lunch at Houston’s Cafe Annie, and I so loved the Godello paired with one of the many brilliant creations of Chef Robert Del Grande, that I gathered up a couple of other Godello samples and created a version of the dish at home.

Seared Sea Scallops with Cannellini Beans, Shaved Fennel & Chorizo
On this particular evening, I took the easy way out and used good quality canned cannellini beans, but you could certainly soak and cook a batch of dried beans — and better control the “mush” factor that way! Serves 4 as a first course.

4 large sea scallops
1 can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
1 fennel bulb, cleaned and very thinly sliced
1 dried Spanish chorizo sausage
1 small garlic clove, minced
extra virgin olive oil
kosher salt & black pepper
fennel fronds, for garnish

Slice 12 thin slices off one end of the chorizo. In a small skillet, fry the slices of chorizo in a small amount of olive oil until lightly browned, turning. Transfer to a paper towel to drain and cool.

In a small saucepan, saute minced garlic in a tablespoon of olive oil. Add drained beans and warm, stirring lightly to avoid mashing the beans.

Heat a tablespoon or two of olive oil in a saute pan until hot. Pat scallops dry, season lightly with salt and pepper, and add to pan, searing scallops for about 1 1/2 minutes on each side. They should have a nice golden crust but still be translucent in the center.

Place a small mound of beans on each of 4 serving plates. Top each with a sprinkling of very thinly sliced fennel and two fried chorizo slices. Top with a scallop. Garnish with the remaining chorizo slice, a few fennel fronds and a light drizzle of olive oil. Serve immediately.

Bodegas Godeval 2007 Godello Valdeorras ($18). Supple pear fruit is accented with loads of mineral intensity, as well as resin, almond and lime notes that linger on the full finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. A lot of wine for the money! Locate this wine online or in your area.

Telmo Rodriguez 2006 Godello Valdeorras Gaba do Xil ($15). Apple pie aromas and flavors pick up much-needed hits of mineral and acidity through the moderate finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.