I think there’s not much question at this point that the Russian River Valley is one of the top California appellations for Pinot Noir. The fruit is just plain pretty, with a silky delicacy that Pinot lovers crave.

I recently tasted a relatively new one — from a project called Picket Fence. It’s just the second vintage of this label, but the people behind it are a group of industry veterans with impressive credentials. Winemaker Don Van Staaveren (formerly of Chateau St. Jean) and Vineyard Manager Pete Opatz (who has been so involved in Sonoma grape growing for 25 years or so that if you’ve ever had a Sonoma wine, you’ve undoubtedly enjoyed his grapes) are the winemaking team behind Picket Fence, and they’re making a Chardonnay and a Pinot Noir.

I tasted the Pinot first and thought it was a knockout. A couple of days later, with expectations admittedly raised, I tasted the Chardonnay, but it seemed a little disjointed and didn’t do as much for me… But back to that delicious Pinot:

Picket Fence 2006 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley ($30). Bright but delicate red raspberry and cherry fruit is laced with pretty spices and touches of toast and vanilla. Silky, supple mouthfeel and a long, complex, focused finish. Delicious now and over the next 3-4 years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Food Pairing Idea: Amaretto Marinated Salmon
Pinot Noir works beautifully with grilled or roasted salmon — from simply seasoned to this twist on an Asian-inspired marinade. Don’t worry, the salmon doesn’t taste like Amaretto, it just takes on a caramelized almond glaze that contrasts nicely with the brightness of the fresh ginger and lime juice! Serves 4

½ cup Amaretto
½ cup low sodium soy sauce
Juice of 2 limes
3 Tablespoons sesame oil
1 Tablespoon grated fresh ginger
a pinch of kosher salt and a generous grinding of black pepper
4 salmon fillets or steaks

Combine all ingredients except salmon and whisk to combine. Pour over salmon fillets and marinate for about one hour.

Preheat oven to 350F. Remove salmon from marinade and place in a greased baking dish, skin side down. Bake for 10-12 minutes, until cooked to your liking.

Meanwhile, pour marinade into a saucepan, bring to a boil and reduce while salmon is cooking.

When salmon is finished, place on a serving platter or individual plates and drizzle a bit of reduced marinade over each serving.