It started years ago, mostly in Australia and New Zealand, where winemakers began making “unoaked” Chardonnays that offer fresher, leaner fruit without the creamy, buttery, oaky character that comes from barrel fermentation, malolactic fermentation and/or oak aging.

The style is loosely based on the low-oak technique most famous in France’s Chablis region, and it appeals to winemakers and consumers who are tired of the heavy, clunky Chardonnays that taste more like buttered popcorn (or, in some cases, more like a two-by-four) than fruit.

Unoaked Chardonnay tends to offer crisp fruit — think Granny Smith apple and green pear — with refreshing natural acidity that makes them much more food-friendly than the heavily oaked versions. Wines made with little or no time in oak are a much greater test of the quality of the grapes, and when they’re good — they’re really good.

And while it’s true that oak aging, when well done, can add layers of complexity to a finished wine, unoaked Chardonnays are not necessarily simplistic. You still find spice, slate, mineral, earth and other notes — again, this depends greatly on the quality of the fruit.

Some California winemakers are getting on-board the unoaked trend, and judging from the ones I’ve tasted, the quality is encouraging.

The winemaking techniques vary considerably, with some winemakers using neutral barrels to finish the wine, and others using malolactic fermentation. Even if that is getting away from the idea of completely “unoaked” wine — I think it’s generally true that most winemakers who go to the trouble to try to make an unoaked Chardonnay (and take the risk of letting their fruit stand more or less alone) end up with some pretty good wines.

Here are a few I’ve enjoyed lately:

Iron Horse 2006 Chardonnay Sonoma County Green Valley Unoaked ($26). Pretty stuff, with aromatic, flavorful green pear, honeydew and citrus that stay crisp and elegant through the long, complex, mineral-driven finish. Ready to drink now and over the next two or three years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

St. Supery 2007 Chardonnay Napa Valley Oak Free ($25). Nice! With focused lemon curd, apple blossom, green pear and juicy melon aromas and flavors that linger on the full, fresh finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

The Wishing Tree 2007 Chardonnay Western Australia Unoaked ($12). On the simple side, but bright and fresh and easy to like. With tropical melon, pineapple and juicy citrus flavors on a medium-bodied frame. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Yalumba 2007 Chardonnay South Australia The Y Series Unwooded ($11). Crisp green pear and citrus aromas and flavors stay focused through the juicy finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.